New ESP gadget

[manjh]

As an idea, if you need to have the relay on a different purpose than switching mains, one can cut the traces to mains.

On a Sonoff you can't, since the power supply for the ESP part is drawn from mains.
On the little device in this topic: you don't need to, since the relay will only be used for switching, so it doesn't really care what is attached.

[toffel969]

As an idea, if you need to have the relay on a different purpose than switching mains, one can cut the traces to mains.

On a Sonoff you can't, since the power supply for the ESP part is drawn from mains.
On the little device in this topic: you don't need to, since the relay will only be used for switching, so it doesn't really care what is attached.

That is exactly what I am trying to point out. You can achieve the same functionality with a Sonoff, you just need to cut the traces connecting mains from input clamps to the relay. Then you can switch anything.

[manjh]

As an idea, if you need to have the relay on a different purpose than switching mains, one can cut the traces to mains.

On a Sonoff you can't, since the power supply for the ESP part is drawn from mains.
On the little device in this topic: you don't need to, since the relay will only be used for switching, so it doesn't really care what is attached.

That is exactly what I am trying to point out. You can achieve the same functionality with a Sonoff, you just need to cut the traces connecting mains from input clamps to the relay. Then you can switch anything.

Sounds tricky, since you would need to keep the leads to the power supply intact! Remember the ESP part of the Sonoff is powered that way.
Also, you would have to make new connections to the relay.
I think I would rather go for a separate NodeMCU with a relay board, which is effectively just what this small device is.

[toffel969]

On a Sonoff you can't, since the power supply for the ESP part is drawn from mains.
On the little device in this topic: you don't need to, since the relay will only be used for switching, so it doesn't really care what is attached.

That is exactly what I am trying to point out. You can achieve the same functionality with a Sonoff, you just need to cut the traces connecting mains from input clamps to the relay. Then you can switch anything.

Sounds tricky, since you would need to keep the leads to the power supply intact! Remember the ESP part of the Sonoff is powered that way.
Also, you would have to make new connections to the relay.
I think I would rather go for a separate NodeMCU with a relay board, which is effectively just what this small device is.

Sure, I got nothing against the small device, and if you buy for the purpose, it is undoutbely better than "open heart surgery" on a sonoff.
However, often one finds the situation where you just have a sonoff lying around and want to switch "something DC"... then cutting the traces and making a new connection can be an option.

[papperone]

I've my own custom made solution, which is way better than sonoff, up to 3 relays and can control anything from 230VAC down to 5VDC
https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/inde ... ule3xRelay
It's small enough (80x60 mm) and I just need to design an enclosure fro external use (not top priority as I'm already using many of those inside junction boxes)

PS: it also has a full ESP8266 with 4Mb flash mem and all pinout brough out to pinheaders for easy connection of additional devices (I use those pins for temperature sensors and PIR devices)

[toffel969]

I've my own custom made solution, which is way better than sonoff, up to 3 relays and can control anything from 230VAC down to 5VDC
https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/inde ... ule3xRelay
It's small enough (80x60 mm) and I just need to design an enclosure fro external use (not top priority as I'm already using many of those inside junction boxes)

PS: it also has a full ESP8266 with 4Mb flash mem and all pinout brough out to pinheaders for easy connection of additional devices (I use those pins for temperature sensors and PIR devices)

In deed, this is better. Do you sell your pcb?

[papperone]

I've my own custom made solution, which is way better than sonoff, up to 3 relays and can control anything from 230VAC down to 5VDC
https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/inde ... ule3xRelay
It's small enough (80x60 mm) and I just need to design an enclosure fro external use (not top priority as I'm already using many of those inside junction boxes)

PS: it also has a full ESP8266 with 4Mb flash mem and all pinout brough out to pinheaders for easy connection of additional devices (I use those pins for temperature sensors and PIR devices)

In deed, this is better. Do you sell your pcb?

never thought about it, if you are able to assemble it I can share the gerber files but consider all discrete components are SMD...

[LisaM]

I've my own custom made solution, which is way better than sonoff, up to 3 relays and can control anything from 230VAC down to 5VDC
https://www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/inde ... ule3xRelay
It's small enough (80x60 mm) and I just need to design an enclosure fro external use (not top priority as I'm already using many of those inside junction boxes)

PS: it also has a full ESP8266 with 4Mb flash mem and all pinout brough out to pinheaders for easy connection of additional devices (I use those pins for temperature sensors and PIR devices)

One of the most densly packed esp8266 i ever saw: https://github.com/JanGoe/esp8266-wifi-relay
48x48mm...
I once asked itead for even more densely packed 8266, an micro module. Never heard back from them...

[papperone]

One of the most densly packed esp8266 i ever saw: https://github.com/JanGoe/esp8266-wifi-relay
48x48mm...
I once asked itead for even more densely packed 8266, an micro module. Never heard back from them...

I know this design Lisa but IMHO it's too packed with several issues:
1) the ESP8266 antenna is somehow blocked and I'm certain the quality of WiFi can't be that good
2) GPIO15 pulldown is done without resistor
3) Resistor to the mosfet gate is too big (100K?)
4) No RESET button (and with module connected to MAIN I wonder how you can do it in a safer way
5) CH_PD is pulled high without resistor
6) GPIO0/2 shoudl be pulled high at boot for proper boot
7) GPIO0 is floating and I'm sure this can lead to random issues
8) Relays are driven directly while I believe an optocoupler gives better protection to spikes
9) SDA/SCL signals are not pulled HIGH and this can cause issues with some I2C devices

I'm sure there are other issues but above list is long enough for me to classify this module as "I don't like it"

[TD-er]

As an idea, if you need to have the relay on a different purpose than switching mains, one can cut the traces to mains.

On a Sonoff you can't, since the power supply for the ESP part is drawn from mains.
On the little device in this topic: you don't need to, since the relay will only be used for switching, so it doesn't really care what is attached.

That is exactly what I am trying to point out. You can achieve the same functionality with a Sonoff, you just need to cut the traces connecting mains from input clamps to the relay. Then you can switch anything.

Just cutting traces on mains power lines is not a good idea.
For 230V you need to keep a gap of at least 3 mm or else it could create an arc between the copper lines and thus isn't safe to touch.

[grovkillen]

2) GOPIO15 pulldown is done without resistor
5) CH_PD is pulled high without resistor

Sorry for my ignorance but what is the main error with doing it this way? I have an ESP-01 that I'm trying to control my projector with and I pull the CH_PD high with no resistor.

[papperone]

2) GOPIO15 pulldown is done without resistor
5) CH_PD is pulled high without resistor

Sorry for my ignorance but what is the main error with doing it this way? I have an ESP-01 that I'm trying to control my projector with and I pull the CH_PD high with no resistor.

Connecting 3V3 directly to a PIN basically you are not limiting the current that can flow, thus you can damage the (delicate!) pin of the ESP8266...
I know it's not commonly to happen but, with the cost of a resistor I think it's worth to protect the MC, which is a pain in the a$$ if you need to replace it (talking about ESP-12F)

[grovkillen]

Thanks! I will remember this in future builds

[Shardan]

2) GOPIO15 pulldown is done without resistor
5) CH_PD is pulled high without resistor

Sorry for my ignorance but what is the main error with doing it this way? I have an ESP-01 that I'm trying to control my projector with and I pull the CH_PD high with no resistor.

Connecting 3V3 directly to a PIN basically you are not limiting the current that can flow, thus you can damage the (delicate!) pin of the ESP8266...
I know it's not commonly to happen but, with the cost of a resistor I think it's worth to protect the MC, which is a pain in the a$$ if you need to replace it (talking about ESP-12F)

On Top:
GPIO15 needs "low" at startup for booting from the correct memory (GPIO15 = "high" says boot from SD-Card which ist not supported by ESPEasy).
If the ESP is running GPIO15 is a usable GPIO. If you connect GPIO15 directly to GND it can't be used for anything.
It should be possible to connect GPIO15 to GND with a 10 KOhm resistor and with a pushbutton to +3.3V so you can use it as a button input for example.
Just on Bootup the button should not be pressed.

It's same as with GPIO0, just GPIO0 has to be "high" on boot or you'll run into flash mode.

Regards
Shardan

[LisaM]

I know this design Lisa but IMHO it's too packed with several issues:
1) the ESP8266 antenna is somehow blocked and I'm certain the quality of WiFi can't be that good
2) GPIO15 pulldown is done without resistor
3) Resistor to the mosfet gate is too big (100K?)
4) No RESET button (and with module connected to MAIN I wonder how you can do it in a safer way
5) CH_PD is pulled high without resistor
6) GPIO0/2 shoudl be pulled high at boot for proper boot
7) GPIO0 is floating and I'm sure this can lead to random issues
8) Relays are driven directly while I believe an optocoupler gives better protection to spikes
9) SDA/SCL signals are not pulled HIGH and this can cause issues with some I2C devices

I'm sure there are other issues but above list is long enough for me to classify this module as "I don't like it"

If you make it this size, i'll buy ten! https://goo.gl/images/XHULxd
Anything (much) bigger then that means it no longer fits and then size no longer matters. It's the reason i still have zwave, all others zwave modules are phased out in favor of esp.

[papperone]

If you make it this size, i'll buy ten! https://goo.gl/images/XHULxd
Anything (much) bigger then that means it no longer fits and then size no longer matters. It's the reason i still have zwave, all others zwave modules are phased out in favor of esp.

That's beyond an hobbysitc approach
I'm sure it's doable, but the investment behind (time and money) won't be affordable if not aiming to a commercial product line...

[enesbcs]

If you make it this size, i'll buy ten! https://goo.gl/images/XHULxd
Anything (much) bigger then that means it no longer fits and then size no longer matters. It's the reason i still have zwave, all others zwave modules are phased out in favor of esp.

That's beyond an hobbysitc approach
I'm sure it's doable, but the investment behind (time and money) won't be affordable if not aiming to a commercial product line...

Regrettable, because i am also interested in very small size - european 65mm wall box compatible relays, which i am unable to find. I have no intentions to make one on my own, but if something can be hacked easily, i am interested..

[papperone]

I'm not familiar with northern EU standard, in Italy the junction boxes are 10x10cm (9x9 internal space) and standard wall plug is 85x55mm so plenty of space

[manjh]

If you make it this size, i'll buy ten! https://goo.gl/images/XHULxd
Anything (much) bigger then that means it no longer fits and then size no longer matters. It's the reason i still have zwave, all others zwave modules are phased out in favor of esp.

That's beyond an hobbysitc approach
I'm sure it's doable, but the investment behind (time and money) won't be affordable if not aiming to a commercial product line...

Regrettable, because i am also interested in very small size - european 65mm wall box compatible relays, which i am unable to find. I have no intentions to make one on my own, but if something can be hacked easily, i am interested..

I've used several KlikAanKlikUit modules that fint into the wall socket behind a standard switch device. It works, but in my experience the reception is slightly less than the plug-in devices. Probably has something to do with cables and metal (of the switch) taking some of the RF reception away.
So using a small device with an even smaller antenna, that is also partly covered.... not sure! Maybe Wifi signals are not as much hit by this effect.

[LisaM]

I've used several KlikAanKlikUit modules that fint into the wall socket behind a standard switch device. It works, but in my experience the reception is slightly less than the plug-in devices. Probably has something to do with cables and metal (of the switch) taking some of the RF reception away.
So using a small device with an even smaller antenna, that is also partly covered.... not sure! Maybe Wifi signals are not as much hit by this effect.

Zwave is using 868MHz, Wifi 2.4GHz. So in theorie wifi should operate better in a wall then zwave due to the shorter wavelength. Zwave is working just fine at my home, so wifi should do better.

[LisaM]

Regrettable, because i am also interested in very small size - european 65mm wall box compatible relays, which i am unable to find. I have no intentions to make one on my own, but if something can be hacked easily, i am interested..

The only one i could find is in the link i shared, that is small enough (barely though). Papperone's southern europe's junction boxes are hugh compared to mine (nothern european) boxes, they will never fit.

[TD-er]

[...]
Zwave is using 868MHz, Wifi 2.4GHz. So in theorie wifi should operate better in a wall then zwave due to the shorter wavelength. Zwave is working just fine at my home, so wifi should do better.

Shorter wavelength depends more on a "line of sight".

[manjh]

[...]
Zwave is using 868MHz, Wifi 2.4GHz. So in theorie wifi should operate better in a wall then zwave due to the shorter wavelength. Zwave is working just fine at my home, so wifi should do better.

Shorter wavelength depends more on a "line of sight".

Wifi? Line of sight? I don't think so...

[LisaM]

Shorter wavelength depends more on a "line of sight".

It would take a vertical metal plate to do this kind of shielding, due to the low bandwidth requirements from espeasy an echo would be enough to connect to the ap.
I have three unifi's with overlapping reach sharing the same ssid, so it would still connect to another ap in the case something would block one side. To make it unreachable, you would need to have a faraday cage...

[enesbcs]

I found a very interesting gadget, at first sight i think it is a Sonoff... after zooming in, i saw that "Smart Home" is the brand.. Has someone met it already? Is it ESP based?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Control ... 1457073840

[grovkillen]

I found a very interesting gadget, at first sight i think it is a Sonoff... after zooming in, i saw that "Smart Home" is the brand.. Has someone met it already? Is it ESP based?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Control ... 1457073840

Seems like a device that could hold an esp8266 inside. For that price it might be worth testing?

[papperone]

I found a very interesting gadget, at first sight i think it is a Sonoff... after zooming in, i saw that "Smart Home" is the brand.. Has someone met it already? Is it ESP based?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Control ... 1457073840

I bet it's a Sonoff-clone, which is funny as now Chinese clone their own products

[enesbcs]

I bet it's a Sonoff-clone, which is funny as now Chinese clone their own products

Every successful product is worth copying.

Seems like a device that could hold an esp8266 inside. For that price it might be worth testing?

Yes, almost the same price than an ESP Dev Board, but it has a plastic case.
I hope it's not made with an RTL based chip.. I just ordered one for testing.

[Shardan]

USD 3.71 for a copy with questionable content and quality vs USD 4.85 for the genuine Sonoff basic (actual price from the Itead.cc website https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html )

Guys, really.....

Have a Merry Christmas everyone

Shardan

[papperone]

USD 3.71 for a copy with questionable content and quality vs USD 4.85 for the genuine Sonoff basic (actual price from the Itead.cc website https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html )

Guys, really.....

Have a Merry Christmas everyone

Shardan

+1 and Merry Christmas as well

[grovkillen]

USD 3.71 for a copy with questionable content and quality vs USD 4.85 for the genuine Sonoff basic (actual price from the Itead.cc website https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html )

Guys, really.....

Have a Merry Christmas everyone

Shardan

+1 and Merry Christmas as well

+1

[manjh]

USD 3.71 for a copy with questionable content and quality vs USD 4.85 for the genuine Sonoff basic (actual price from the Itead.cc website https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html )

Guys, really.....

Have a Merry Christmas everyone

Shardan

no-brainer.

Merry x-mas to all!

[Shardan]

Always remember Ruskin's rule:

"There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person's lawful prey. It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money – that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot – it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better."

(John Ruskin)

[enesbcs]

USD 3.71 for a copy with questionable content and quality vs USD 4.85 for the genuine Sonoff basic (actual price from the Itead.cc website https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html )
Guys, really.....
Have a Merry Christmas everyone

I have already a Sonoff S20 and a Sonoff Dual, and honestly i do not need either the genuine Basic, neither the clone, there are no place of use currently to me. It will go straight to the bottom of a shelf, after i tested it, i am only curious. I need to know what it is made of.
Merry Christmas!

[enesbcs]

USD 3.71 for a copy with questionable content and quality vs USD 4.85 for the genuine Sonoff basic (actual price from the Itead.cc website https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html )

You mean 3.71$ + Free international shipping vs 4.85$+25$ shipping? Just joking, i know that on ebay original Sonoff basic can be found for 6$ with FREE SHIPPING.. but as i heared a lot of ebay seller sends replacement Powstro models nowadays.

In the meantime i received this "SmartHome" branded item, and when i tear it apart i see that it contains exactly the same hardware as the Powstro Basic. ESP8266-S3 flashed by me immediately, and i played some time.

[Shardan]

... with thin copper tracks and other flaws...

[enesbcs]

As far as I can see it is 8266 based!
See this one at Banggood:
https://www.banggood.com/search/esp-01s ... odule.html
I think that would take this unit:
https://www.banggood.com/Upgraded-Versi ... rehouse=CN
So the ebay offer is not bad at all!

The pictures at banggood are better.. I do not see other MCU, the relay perhaps directly changed by GPIO0 of the ESP-01?

It looks like a very simple device, so I assume you are right.... anyway, the risk is low (only a few Euro's).

In the meantime this device arrived, sadly it's ESP-01S based on PUYA, but can be flashed with R147. The relay controlled by GPIO0 directly. GPIO2 did not do anything except lightning the ESP-01S blue LED.

[manjh]

In the meantime this device arrived, sadly it's ESP-01S based on PUYA, but can be flashed with R147. The relay controlled by GPIO0 directly. GPIO2 did not do anything except lightning the ESP-01S blue LED.

How did you flash it? I connected the ftdi in the usual manner, crossing tx and rx.
Connected GPIO0 to gnd.
Plugged in and found COM3.
Tried to load R147 4096 using the esptool, but it will not load. (also tried 1024)
What am I missing?

[enesbcs]

How did you flash it? I connected the ftdi in the usual manner, crossing tx and rx.
Connected GPIO0 to gnd.
Plugged in and found COM3.
Tried to load R147 4096 using the esptool, but it will not load. (also tried 1024)
What am I missing?

I connected it with this way:

Than flashed with R147 1Mb/64k SPIFFS version at DOUT mode with the new Nodemcu PyFlasher application at ttyUSB0 (Linux).

[manjh]

How did you flash it? I connected the ftdi in the usual manner, crossing tx and rx.
Connected GPIO0 to gnd.
Plugged in and found COM3.
Tried to load R147 4096 using the esptool, but it will not load. (also tried 1024)
What am I missing?

I connected it with this way:

Than flashed with R147 1Mb/64k SPIFFS version at DOUT mode with the new Nodemcu PyFlasher application at ttyUSB0 (Linux).

I carefully reconnected following your diagram and ran Py Flasher in DOUT mode, loading R147 1024.
It starts with "Connecting....._____....." but after a while simply stops. No error message, nothing.
Also noticed that the blue LED does not blink, as it usually does on an ESP module during load.

After this I disconnected the wiring and started the unit on 3.3V and Gnd alone, and see the FaryLink AP showing up on Wifi. Looks like nothing was loaded...
Any ideas?

[grovkillen]

Probably never got booted into flash mode.

[manjh]

Probably never got booted into flash mode.

I thought that as well. So I double-checked all connections.
Also, when I start the unit without GPIO0 connected to ground, I can see the blue LED flash twice quickly. When I start the unit with GPIO0 low, it only blinks once. So there definitely is a difference...

[toffel969]

Always remember Ruskin's rule:

"There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person's lawful prey. It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money – that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot – it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better."

(John Ruskin)

The long version of the good old German saying "Wer billig kauft, kauft zwei mal", --> If you buy cheap, you buy twice. I concur

[manjh]

Always remember Ruskin's rule:

"There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person's lawful prey. It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money – that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot – it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better."

(John Ruskin)

The long version of the good old German saying "Wer billig kauft, kauft zwei mal", --> If you buy cheap, you buy twice. I concur

You run into a tricky area considering the definition of the word "cheap".
Expensive: a 25000 Euro car that depreciates 40% in the first year.
Cheap: a 35000 Euro car that depreciates 20% in the first year.
I've seen examples of both. My point: price alone does not determine if a product is cheap or expensive.
Especially with the quickly dropping prices of Chinese hardware, it makes sense to keep an eye on new items and check them out.

[enesbcs]

I've found a very nice looking 27x19x18mm sized ESP8266 module with one relay and one touch button.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ESP8266-WIFI-I ... 1932199168
I currently using Sonoff Touch and Sonoff T1 for Lighting Control, so i do not see any use case for me, but still it is a very compact unit. Maybe for a smart smart 230V extension cable..
But as i see the RX and TX is near the crystal and not an easy task to solder it.

[enesbcs]

I found a new device, looks like a redesigned Sonoff S20..
"WAZA Wifi Smart EU Plug Power Socket"
Anyone has it? I wonder if it could be flashed?

[enesbcs]

I've found a very nice looking 27x19x18mm sized ESP8266 module with one relay and one touch button.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ESP8266-WIFI-I ... 1932199168

By the way it's a Heltec Touch Relay:
https://github.com/xoseperez/espurna/wi ... ouch-Relay

[danmero]

I just order this one, look interesting?




Regards,

[enesbcs]

As i see this wifi door sensor is ESP based:

Anyone tested it already?
https://www.gearbest.com/smart-home-con ... id=1433363

[the cosmic gate]

I just order this one, look interesting?




Regards,

Interesting ! Is this ESP8266 based ?