real advantage of using Wemos D1 mini V3.x vs. V2.0 ?

[tparvais]

Hello

I wonder if there is a clear interest to use the last Wemos D1 mini 4M V3.0.0 (or 3.1.1) vs. the previous v2.0 ?
v2.0, with a kind of shield over the chipset


and the v3.x:


What is your advise ?

I need to refuel my stock...

Thomas

[TD-er]

Well the "V3.0" has never been made by Wemos (Lolin), so they may be using components with disputable quality like a very weak voltage regulator.

But on the other hand, the "v2.0" version you can not buy online is also very unlikely to be "original".

Personally I do like the one with the metal cap over it as it tends to be a little more stable in noisy environments, but it is really hard to tell as there are lots and lots of versions being sold with low quality components.

The ones with the metal cap are very likely to have at least the module with the ESP from the original manufacturer, like Espressif or another one like doit.am

If you supply your own 3.3V then the used on board voltage regulator doesn't really matter.
Use the one with the metal cap then.

Some of these boards also have larger flash chips and are then often sold as "pro".

[tparvais]

Well the "V3.0" has never been made by Wemos (Lolin), so they may be using components with disputable quality like a very weak voltage regulator.

But on the other hand, the "v2.0" version you can not buy online is also very unlikely to be "original".

Personally I do like the one with the metal cap over it as it tends to be a little more stable in noisy environments, but it is really hard to tell as there are lots and lots of versions being sold with low quality components.

The ones with the metal cap are very likely to have at least the module with the ESP from the original manufacturer, like Espressif or another one like doit.am

If you supply your own 3.3V then the used on board voltage regulator doesn't really matter.
Use the one with the metal cap then.

Some of these boards also have larger flash chips and are then often sold as "pro".

thanks generally i power them with 12V DC + local miniature DC buck converter below the ESP

I'll keep working with the one with metal caps. They are cheap

[TD-er]

Well if you have your own voltage regulator, better to have it output 3.3V if you don't need 5V for some sensors.
And make sure to add your own capacitors (100 nF and 22uF) close to the 3.3V pin and GND of the board.