Converting Wemo D1 Mini to 3.3V Only/Low Power

[whatsupskip]

I have seen mentioned on this forum (can't find where now) and elsewhere that people have converted the Wemos D1 Mini to run only on 3.3V and reduced the power consumption by removing the 5V regulator and USB bridge.

The idea being that the Wemos D1 mini is loaded the easy way with the ESP Easy firmware while the 5V regulator and USB bridge is in place. Then the 5V regulator and USB bridge are removed or links cut. The removal of these two parts dramatically reduces the power consumption of the board when running off batteries, but still allows easy initial programming of the ESP8266.

Has anyone seen detailed instructions on how to do this?

Alternatively, has anyone seen any cheap ESP8266 boards that run on batteries that are easy to program initially or even better has an easy initial programming board and then runs on 3.3V?

[whatsupskip]

Update
Here is an example of how to do this: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5498

Alternatively using this design, but with the additional components mounted on a protoboard shield.

[Wiki]

[...]
Has anyone seen detailed instructions on how to do this?
[...]

...Here is an example of how to do this: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5498
[...]

I don't get you. Do you need more details in addition to the descriptions and the pictures in the linked thread?

[whatsupskip]

No. I was purely putting in a link to the information, so that when someone else comes across the thread they are directed to the solution.

[Wiki]

ok, now I understood.

To be precise: on the page linked above there are two solutions focussing at the goal to reduce the power consumption during _deep sleep_. The ESP8266 itself consumes too much power to let it run 24/7 on battery.

In both designs only the gnd pin of the uart is disconnected, so in worst case it will be possible to reanimize the serial connection using USB to the mcu by only connecting this pin to ground.

The difference between the two solutions:
- ligeza has connected the supply voltage directly to the 3.3V MCP1703T voltage regulator, so the mcu board gets only 3.3V. Infact, thats a pure 3.3V design. The used voltage regulator has the advantage of a quiescent current of app. 2µA.

- I replaced the onboard voltage regulator with a HT7333 and connected the vin pin to the 5V pin and vout to the 3.3V soldering plate of the old voltage regulator of the board. This board still can be run with 5V over USB. Disadvanatge of the HT7333 compared to the MCP1703T is the doubled quiescent current of 4µA. But the needed dropout voltage is lower than the one of the MCP1703T, battery might work longer.